The Last Grape

The Rhône’s often overlooked Muscardin grape is gaining attention in California

Wine Spectator senior editor Aaron Romano
Tablas Creek in Paso Robles is bringing new life to lesser-known Rhône grape varieties; senior editor Aaron Romano finds out why … . (Rick Wenner)

Approximately 0.01 percent of the vineyards in France’s Rhône Valley are planted to Muscardin, an auxiliary blending red grape, which, while recognized in the official Châteauneuf-du-Pape regulations, is often forgotten among the better-known allowed varieties such as Syrah, Grenache and Roussanne.

“[Muscardin] is one of the many old varieties that fell out of favor,” says Tablas Creek partner and general manager Jason Haas. “In the 1960s and ’70s, it was making wines that were pale and low alcohol, and high in acid, in an era where the wines that were being rewarded tended to be dark and rich and luscious.”

In 2019, Tablas Creek established half an acre of Muscardin in its Paso Robles vineyards, completing the winery's set of all 14 Châteauneuf-du-Pape varieties. That block now represents all of California’s Muscardin plantings.

But why grow a castaway grape? Learn more with senior editor Aaron Romano in his most recent column!

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