In 1981, Auberge du Soleil debuted as Napa Valley’s first fine-dining restaurant before expanding to include a luxury resort. Today, the hillside retreat remains an admired destination for indulgence and comfort, while the restaurant, too, endures as a stalwart for outstanding food and wine.
For 42 years, Kris Margerum led the wine program at Auberge du Soleil, which has earned a Best of Award of Excellence every year since 1996. However, as of this January, Katharina Marrapode, a young German-born wine director, has taken over the reins.
When Marrapode was growing up, her parents worked in hospitality—her father was a restaurant server, while her mother was an executive housekeeper—so pursuing a career in the industry was natural. Marrapode’s interest in wine was also sparked by her family; her grandparents enjoyed wine, and often, family vacations included trips to wine regions around Germany.
Because Marrapode’s parents’ careers resulted in semi-frequent moves, eventually they found their way to the U.S., where she spent her high school years in Naperville, Illinois. After high school, she decided to stay in the U.S. and study hospitality management and English at the University of Denver. “During my college career, I had two main passions: hospitality and English literature,” says Marrapode. “When I took my first beverage management course, I started intimately studying not just how wine is made, but the history and stories.”
Since 2019, Marrapode has worked within the Auberge group, including in the Auberge Resorts Manager in Development program at Napa’s Calistoga Ranch before it was destroyed in the 2020 fires. She also had stints at Mauna Lani on Hawaii’s Big Island and the Lodge at Blue Sky in Park City, Utah. (“My heart was striving to be back in wine country,” recalled Marrapode.) In the summer of 2021, she joined Auberge du Soleil as an assistant manager. It wasn’t long before she took over the role of bar manager. Then, after earning the team’s trust, she was selected to succeed Margerum as director of wine and spirits.
Marrapode sat down with Wine Spectator senior editor Aaron Romano to discuss filling such big shoes, modernizing the restaurant’s wine program, how she engages with young wine lovers and more.
Do you have any fond wine memories from growing up in Germany?
My grandparents had a love of wine and family vacations; we often visited wine regions around Germany, particularly the Mosel. From a young age, I was privy to viewing wine cellars and vineyards and witnessing the art of wine tasting. In fact, while the adults were sampling wine, many vintners let my brother and me taste different bottlings of grape juice. I have really vivid memories. They poured the grape juice into wineglasses, and one time, this really old vintner poured it right out of the barrel. I’m not sure if it had any impact, but it looked cool, and I was really impressed.
When you have kids with you, the easiest way to entertain them is to say, “Okay, well, you have to pick the best grape juice.” This was always a crucial part of the trip for me! Some of them were quite sweet, while others were red. I thought it was the most fun thing ever, because I felt like I was involved. At the end of the week, we were allowed to take home two bottles of grape juice; to nine-year-old me, choosing the right two bottles was everything!
Do you still have a fondness for German wines?
I still do. What I find particularly sad is that many people associate German Riesling with sweet wine. My parents were very much of a ‘the drier the better’ mentality. Germany has a really fortunate law that you can start drinking at 16. I was fortunate to participate in wine tastings from a young age, and when I would go home to visit, it helped me understand Riesling. My parents were not big proponents of red wine, so it was mostly all white wine.
Kris Margerum was the wine director at Auberge for over 40 years. How has it been filling his shoes?
We in the local sommelier community had been talking about it for a while: Who’s going to take over the job up here? When I was applying for the role, Kris said, “They obviously should pick you, because it should go to somebody who’s already here.” What was really intimidating was all the candidates I was up against. Anytime you step into a new role, you want to make sure you do it right, especially when you have an example of someone who has succeeded. I feel really fortunate and thankful that the people here trusted me.
What kind of wine list did you inherit? How are you approaching restructuring it, if at all?
The first thing I’ve done is change the by-the-glass program, which used to have 40 options. If you’re a patron, that’s very intimidating. How do I make the right selection? We’ve pared down our selections, and in turn, we’re increasing our half-bottle selection, so that if you don’t see something you love in our by-the-glass program, you can still go for a half-bottle.
In a similar vein, our wine list was split up by regions. If you don’t know all the different regions in France, then it’s difficult to figure out where your palate wants to go. Now, it’s split up by grape variety.
There are opportunities to expand the cellar, but I feel like I have to be really careful. Am I putting this wine on the list because someone’s going to come in and love it, or because I love it? This wine program is going to live beyond you, so you just have to make sure you’re taking care of it.
What are some of the rewards and challenges of running a resort’s cellar?
Running a wine list at a resort gives you opportunities, because you can fill high-end slots pretty easily without much of an argument. But just because you can push your prices that high doesn’t mean you should. Our markups are not wild. There’s something to be said for being approachable while maintaining quality. You also have to remember that at a resort, the wine list has to serve not only the restaurant, but also the casual bar, the pool bar, room service and banqueting. You have to design a wine list that can be just as approachable if I hand it to you sitting down at the pool as it is when you’re sitting down here and dining.
How does being in Napa shape your approach to the wine list?
People come here and say, “There are so many wineries here. I want to drink something from here.” That’s an educational moment, because Napa is not just Cabernet. Local is great, but I make sure to have items on the list that aren’t run-of-the-mill. What’s important is to find the producers doing something that is still local, but, you know, a bit more eccentric. For example, I’ve never sold so much Chenin Blanc in my life, just by telling people that Chenin Blanc is one of the heritage grapes of Napa Valley. It’s about finding the hook.
What is your go-to wine for pairing with a variety of foods?
Cabernet Franc is a really underrated and underused variety for the table that says, “We have all these different dishes, but we want one wine that works.” There’s always that one person who orders the tuna, and you still have to make it make sense. Cabernet Franc is a great vehicle for that. It plays well with so many different flavors, including green notes, like thyme and rosemary.
How significant is it for young people like you to be shaping how people drink wine, including younger wine drinkers visiting Napa Valley?
A lot of people felt that an old guard was holding onto a lot of the wine programs around the country. The switch that’s happening is good; it’s breathing new life into our industry. If we don’t continue to get people excited about the history of wine—why it’s important and why we drink it—then eventually there aren’t going to be any wine directors anymore. We’re going to get replaced by AI.
The younger drinker is challenging. The younger drinker is really after the story. If they feel a connection with the producer or the grape, then the wine becomes something they want to drink. It’s never really about the flavor profile. One thing that has helped is our courtyard tastings, which take place every Thursday and Friday, featuring a different winery each time. When I see younger people coming to those tastings, that’s when I have the opportunity to guide them better. When you’re pouring four different wines and discussing each, it’s easier to find common ground.
At the end of the day, we’re protecting and we’re sharing the stories of the wineries, the domaines and châteaus and our human history. When you think about it that way, it’s hopefully inspiring to new drinkers.
Keep up with the latest restaurant news from our award winners: Subscribe to our free Private Guide to Dining newsletter!
