Changes to how a vineyard is farmed or a wine is made don’t show up right away. In terms of the consumer, that could mean years after a shift begins. And if it doesn’t work out? Well, you don’t want to be the one responsible for damaging the reputation of a well-known estate. But wine is about risks. The wine world wouldn’t be where it is today without them.
Senior editor James Molesworth finds that change is spreading throughout the traditional wine region of Bordeaux, with many changes that were once considered risky—from more natural, holistic farming practices to a lighter winemaking touch—now considered to be fairly simple. He takes a look at the region, estates and winemakers in the vanguard of change—and whether they are seeing dividends—in his column in the May 31, 2025 issue.
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