When people ask me what wine region I’m most excited about right now, I often say Montlouis. This small, Chenin Blanc–dedicated appellation on the Loire River does not enjoy the illustrious reputation of its neighbors, such as Vouvray and Savennières—which are both also undergoing their own quality revolutions, it’s worth noting.
But Montlouis is home to prized flinty limestone soils and ancient vines that are relatively affordable, so ambitious young vintners have flocked here and are transforming the long-overlooked appellation into one of France’s most dynamic. Impressively, 65 percent of the AOC is farmed organically today.
When I asked Xavier Weisskopf, who founded Le Rocher des Violettes in 2005 with the purchase of 9 hectares of pre-WWII vines, what drew him to Montlouis, he told me it was the combination of Chenin Blanc and limestone soils. “We can produce chiseled wines with a mineral precision … we can achieve perfect maturity, combining power, minerality, finesse and balance.” Case in point: his broad, complex, saline-rich Le Grand Clos cuvée, sourced from a plot of Chenin vines that are at least 90 years old—and the wine costs just $34.
Another of my favorites is La Grange Tiphaine, run by Damien and Coralie Delecheneau. Damien is the fifth generation of his family to run the ancient domaine, and quality has skyrocketed under his direction. White Burgundy fans will love his flagship 2023 Clef de Sol cuvée, a serious, salty wine that deftly balances ripe fruit with energetic mineral verve. (They will also like the $37 price tag.)
Much credit for kickstarting the dry Chenin Blanc movement in Montlouis goes to Jacky Blot, who founded Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups in 1988. (For decades before, cheap sweet wine was the order of the day). Run today by his son, Jean-Philippe, the domaine focuses on single-site expressions made with Burgundian methods like extended barrel fermentation. The wines are complex, savory and textured—and I’m convinced they would turn anyone into a Chenin Blanc enthusiast.
One of Chenin’s greatest assets is its chameleon-like ability to excel at a range of styles, and the off-dry versions should not be ignored. François Chidaine, another early trailblazer of the dry Chenin Blanc revolution, also makes a fantastic, super-balanced, barely-off-dry version, Les Tuffeaux, which he holds back for years before release. The 2020 is available now, and it shows how beautifully Chenin benefits from bottle age.
There’s plenty more to discover in Montlouis, and with the quality, complexity and value the wines offer, it’s hard to believe that this Loire gem will stay overlooked for long.
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